Types of Moss
Moss has a history spanning 400 million years and is the ancestor of all plants. There are reportedly over 10,000 species of moss around the world. Japan, in particular, is subject to plenty of rain and high humidity, making it an excellent environment for moss. Around 1,800 species of moss can be found in the wild across the country.
Fragrance Notes and Image
The scent opens with the deeply moist aroma of rich, water-laden earth and a whisper of tender green. When you lean into the mossy note, it transports you to a serene forest: fresh spring water bubbling up amongst the trees, ancient rocks blanketed in velvet moss, and crystal-clear streams flowing through Yakushima’s primeval woodland. It’s a scent that naturally invites deep, calming breaths. I wanted to capture this profound sense of well-being in a fragrance.
Japan’s crystal-clear streams, towering leafy trees, and the soft, whispering rustle of leaves. As you walk through the forest, on a lucky day, you may be fortunate enough to come across wild native citrus. Take a leisurely stroll in nature… and take it easy for a moment.
Design and Concept
The core concept behind KOKE SHIMIZU is ‘crystal-clear spring water and moss growing on rocks.’ I wanted to capture the refreshing chill of a forest filled with the earthy aroma of wet soil.
Fragrance Composition
The Chypre family is traditionally structured around oakmoss, patchouli, and bergamot. While classic Chypres often feel heavy and somber, KOKE SHIMIZU adds plenty of ozone notes and bright citrus accents. This creates a light, clean, and uplifting interpretation of the Chypre style.
Regarding the Fragrance Ingredients
Interestingly, musk accounts for over 30% of this fragrance’s composition. Yet, it doesn’t bring with it the typical heaviness that is associated with musk. Using a high concentration of musk can often result in an animalic tone. However, when skillfully blended with other ingredients, it can instead produce a beautifully clean and fresh impression. KOKE SHIMIZU does not use any natural oakmoss. Natural moss (oakmoss) has a velvety texture that adds the nuances of astringency and depth. Conversely, it is also somewhat muddy and earthy in character.
Natural oakmoss shines brilliantly when crafting deep, opulent florals, rich orientals, or grand, symphonic fragrances — delivering magnificent depth and presence.
However, with KOKE SHIMIZU, I wanted to evoke the gentle murmuring of a clear stream and the soft rustling of wind through the trees — like a symphony of nature’s sounds. That is why I chose to use a refined synthetic moss called Methyl Atralate. This ingredient has a white, slightly dusty quality, reminiscent of tiny water droplets condensed into a soft, hazy mist.
Natural oakmoss contains “evernic acid,” which is considered harmful to the skin, and for this reason it has now been banned under IFRA’s fragrance regulations. So, I was forced to use a synthetic moss instead. As a result, I’m glad I was able to keep the original formula for this perfume intact.
A Natural Fragrance
The β-pinene, reminiscent of bathing in a forest, and soft citrus notes create a delicious, natural-feeling air. Layered with aqua-ozonic materials, they beautifully express moss moistened with water.
KOKE SHIMIZU: Development Background
KOKE SHIMIZU was created in 2007. Deep in the forest, pure spring water bubbles up between moss-covered rocks, with sunlight filtering through the trees, sparkling and dancing on its surface.
The image that I wanted to evoke came clearly to my mind. I decided that a bright citrus Chypre would be the most suitable, and selected the fragrance materials accordingly. When it came to naming, I was torn between ISHIMIZU (“rock spring water”) and KOKE SHIMIZU (“moss spring water”). In the end, I settled upon KOKE SHIMIZU, favoring plant life over inorganic “rock.”
KOKE SHIMIZU: Perfum Page
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